AND thanks. CharlesWilson Posts: Brice, In one of your posts, you said: It may be necessary to add the connecting hardware to both ends of some of the profiles to join different shapes.
The insert has an allen recess, the insert is reverse threaded, turn clockwise to remove, use a 4 mm allen key.
The insert can then be screwed into the another profile, turning counter clockwise, it will self tap into the aluminum. I would just like to point out that I tried to buy additional connecting hardware from FestoolUSA, but they don't seem to be able to provide it!
Also, as I mentioned in a previous thread, I tried to by just two of the mm rails, so that I could obtain a lot of the functionality you described added to my MFS and mm rails , but, again, the part is NAINA.
Great Job!! Let's now look at using copying rings or guide bushings with the MFS. The advantage of using copying rings is twofold, they are always in place while routing, greatly reducing the chance of cutting into the profile and they work with most bits used for template routing, regardless of the bit's cutting length.
Unlike bearing guided bits where the cutter's length is so important. Of course you do have to account for the offset between the bit and the copying ring when setting the MFS to size. The following is a series of drawings showing the setup of the MFS for a mortise. Our mortise will be 20 mm wide by mm long and 50 mm deep. A 10 mm bit will be used with a 30 mm copying ring in the router. We need to account for the space between the bit and to the outside edge of the copying ring, called offset, when we set the MFS profiles to size.
Knowing the offset is 10 mm we add that number twice 20 mm to the width and length of the mortise. Clamp the MFS down where you want it, set the depth of the bit, rout The result should be this, a mortise 20 mm X mm X 50 mm. Working in Metric makes setting the MFS to size pretty easy, however, I understand most of you are much more comfortable working in Imperial.
So let's do another mortise with Imperial measurements, but this time I'll be cutting real wood. With the MFS set to size, I'll place the template on the work piece, I've drawn lines to indicate were the MFS will be set and the mortise will be cut. Once everything has been set MFS and the bit depth and then clamped, I start the routing. A shallow mortise like this one only takes a few passes.
The finished mortise. Nicely done Brice! The pictures are worth a words! Have you tried routing a groove for a rail and stile door using this system? I am thinking their may not be enough wood on either side to register the MFS properly but perhaps I am wrong Dan Clermont.
Brice- You done really, really good here! The pix are worth 10, words. A ton of thanks to you! Clint Holeman clint clintholeman.
Excellent job, as always. Dan Clark Posts: Brice, Very nice! As the saying goes, a pic is worth a thousand words. But I like the drawings even better. Sometimes a drawing is worth a bunch of pics! The drawings of the copying ring and MFS' do a great job of clarifying the concept. Inlays are a great way to add some interesting detail to your projects. The inlay I am going to do now is a simple and relativity small but it is going to have a huge impact on the piece. In the picture here I'm add some scrap stock to act as shims to help support the MFS.
More of the same, set the depth of the bit and rout. I need to be a little careful because I'm routing off each edge, tare out can happen here. Removing small amounts near the edges will greatly reduce the chance of tare out. Here are the pieces that I will use for the inlay, zebra wood. With the pieces fitting perfectly, some blue tape will help hold the pieces in alignment until I can glue and clamp them. In the photo above the excess zebra wood has been cut off and the piece sanded.
Using the MFS to rout this inlay was not much effort, but, added a lot of visual appeal to this piece. Steve Rowe Posts: Teach them safety when they are young. Dan, I don't know if you've ever noticed this or not but, did you know that you have two right hands?
Brice, Good thread and great pictures. Steve, Yep. When I first tried this, I made them mirror images. Looked dumb! Actually, two thumbs up looks dumb too, but not quite as bad! Regards, Dan. Brice, I vote your tutorial on use of the MFS the best yet!!
Now I want one or two. I am a bit concerned reading about the difficulty impossibility that some have expressed about components not being available in NA. I looked into availability of the extra connectors kit about a year ago and was told "no" so I refused to buy any set. Thanks, also, to Jerry for his excellent manual on this tool. Dave R. Friends, family and Festools make for a good retirement.
I'm not so sure. Hi Brice, your tutorials are really outstanding. Perfect photos, simple text. As I wrote you, I am not convinced about some accessories as for the price. But there are some which are hardly to replace with cheaper or simpler solution. And thanks to your tutorial one can see all the possibilities what to do with it.
Thank you. Brice, Any chance you will create a PDF of this material when you're finished? Definitely a document I'd like to add to my reference library. Thanks Fred. Nick C Posts: Get some guide bushings to bear against the inside of the templates you create with the MFS rails. Don T Posts: Phoenix, Az. I think the piece that is used to do circle cutting uses a 30mm bushing. Other than that a bushing kit as mentioned by Nick. You might want to get the Festool guide bushings though, rather than using the adapter with which the comes.
The one downside of the I've discovered and which others have mentioned on the forum , is that the adapter is very difficult to center on the router, because it fits so snugly in the sub-base. I've also had the Leigh adapter recommended to me, though I've yet to purchase it. Sparktrician Posts: Go figure The capacity for occasional blundering is inseparable from the capacity to bring things to pass. I do not know what rules Festool imposes on their retailers but surely if something is NAINA then as an individual one could import whatever it might be from say Axminster who have a proven track record for shipping to North America.
GarryMartin Posts: However, I understand from one of the Festool guys that they're on their way back so fingers crossed this translates to potential NA availability too.
When i ordered it last month in germany, the first dealer told me that festool ran out of MFS and they could not get any. I had to search a little bit to find one. It seems as if there is some bottleneck in the supply. At least i got one at an other dealer. Michael Kellough Posts: Warren, would that rule still apply to dealers in GB? Quote from: toolfest. Peter Parfitt Just noticed your post count Quote from: Sardaukar on February 24, , AM.
So, why does FestoolUSA still list it? As if it's available. RobBob Posts: I wonder if you would ever receive it and if there would be import charges. Yes if anyone has hands on experience with the Trend Varijig let us know. If at first you don't succeed, redefine success! PatR Posts: Tinker Posts: PreferrablyWood Posts:
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